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Whenever compiling a list of London’s finest eateries, one might foresee well-known award-winning names. However, nestled prominently among these food heavyweights is a modest salonu located in a distant part of northern London.

An Shocking Accolade

This little Turkish eatery, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the 4th top restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent gastronomic guide. The honour has made the owners completely surprised.

“I am utterly astonished,” says the proprietor, pointing to his parents’ hard graft that culminated in their small restaurant achieving such a lofty spot on a respected 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

The small shop, which was a simple cafe before its conversion into a buzzing spot, has retained much of its former character. It fits just more than 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking performance, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy spot,” notes the owner.

The Signature Creation: Tantuni

However, it is all about the cuisine, and this restaurant definitely succeeds. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a succulent consistency.

The meat is then added into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. As the savoury mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to absorb all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is wrapped neatly inside.

The wrap is often consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a powerful slap of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The prominent food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is coated in less syrup than is typical, resulting in it a more intense, toastier and more balanced profile.

Rising Above the Stars

Notably, this unassuming spot has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the peak of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place satisfied for under £25, similar experiences at luxury establishments can start at significantly more than that figure.

A Creed of Heart

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I do not agree with that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is most important is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is supported by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he were in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the dangers of overcomplication, and to reveal what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Story of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t apprentice at fancy restaurants. “I am really happy of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum used to be very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a personal life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

An Recognition for the People

This restaurant’s success is set to echo outside its own walls. “In my opinion a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the broader meaning of this gastronomic triumph.